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As dear as saffron.

Reading an article about the efforts of responsible bulb suppliers to ensure that their stock originates from cultivated sources as opposed to being collected from the wild made me think of how important certain bulbs and their products have been to the economies of various regions over the years.

Everyone has heard of the epidemic of "tulip mania" that caused havoc in seventeenth century Europe when single bulbs changed hands for sums well in excess of a year's average salary. The vastly inflated prices did not last and the whole market collapsed leaving many rich gamblers ruined and the economy of Holland in a very precarious position.

This period of wild financial speculation is often used as an extreme example of the economic importance of horticultural produce but large sums of money were being risked on trading a single plant product long before tulips were ever cultivated.

Saffron is made from the stigma or style of an autumn flowering crocus, Crocus sativas, that is thought to have originated in the eastern Mediterranean. Its uses as a spice, dye and in medicine have been recorded by the ancient Greeks and in the Old Testament.

It is the most expensive of spices, hence the old Cornish saying "as dear as saffron", which is not surprising when you realise that it takes the stamens of nine flowers to yield one grain; that is 4,320 flowers to produce 1 oz of saffron.

Although a native of the Mediterranean good quality saffron can be grown in cooler climates, areas of Germany and France grew significant amounts during the middle ages as, of course, did Saffron Walden but most of today's crop comes from Spain. Now that global warming has made wine production possible again in Britain maybe we will soon be able to produce our own saffron, as both crops appear to have been grown under similar conditions in the past.

The high price of saffron inevitably led to various criminal practices aimed at either diluting the pure product or substituting an inferior dye or spice. True saffron has a unique flavour that cannot be faked. Anyone who has eaten a proper saffron cake will know what I mean, such connoisseurs will be able to tell the difference between real saffron rice and the imitation coloured with turmeric.

Incidentally it is said that the Cornish were introduced to saffron during the Bronze Age when trading tin and copper with the Phoenicians.

Turmeric is sometimes sold as "Indian Saffron", a description that is bordering on fraudulent, as India is a significant producer of true saffron.

The true saffron should not be confused with the autumn crocus also known as meadow saffron or naked ladies( Colchicum autumnale) as this much more common plant is very poisonous.

PHOTO CAPTION

Spring flowering crocus are a welcome sight but should not be confused with the autumn flowering saffron crocus.

PHOTO CREDIT Charles Francis

 


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